Your Essential Guide

In today's market, with gold prices reaching an unprecedented $3481 an ounce in April 2025, discerning quality in jewellery has never been more important. As precious metal costs soar, many mass-market brands are quietly compromising on quality to maintain profit margins. This comprehensive guide will arm you with expert knowledge to identify genuine quality and ensure your jewellery investment stands the test of time.

The Gold Standard: What's Happening in the Jewellery Market?

The recent surge in gold prices has triggered significant changes across the jewellery industry. According to the World Gold Council's latest market report, 2025 has seen gold reach multiple record highs, creating ripple effects throughout the supply chain. This price pressure has led many manufacturers to implement cost-cutting measures that directly impact product quality.

As noted by jewellery expert Joanna Hardy in a recent Financial Times interview, "Consumers are often unaware of the subtle quality reductions happening in response to rising gold prices. What appears gold on the surface may contain significantly less precious metal than expected."

Common Quality Compromises to Watch For

1. Reduced Gold Content

Many brands are quietly switching from 9-carat gold to 8-carat alternatives, representing a significant reduction in gold content. While this difference may seem minor, it substantially impacts durability, colour retention, and investment value.

2. Ultra-Thin Plating

Perhaps the most concerning trend is the reduction in gold plating thickness. Industry standard vermeil requires a minimum of 2.5 microns of 10 carat gold over sterling silver. At Lily Blanche, all vermeil jewellery is a minimum of 3 microns of 18 carat gold over sterling silver. However, many mass-market pieces now feature "flash plating" as thin as 0.125 microns—a mere 5% of proper vermeil thickness.

Dr. Christopher Corti, a technical expert in precious metals, explains: "Flash plating may look identical to quality vermeil initially, but will wear through in months rather than years, revealing the base metal beneath."

3. Miniaturisation of Designs

Another subtle approach is simply using less metal. Jewellery designs are becoming increasingly lightweight and smaller. While marketing may position this as "delicate" or "minimalist," it often represents a significant reduction in precious metal content.

4. Base Metal Substitutions

Some manufacturers have begun using brass, stainless steel or other base metals beneath gold plating instead of sterling silver. This practice—while drastically reducing costs—means the jewellery cannot legally receive hallmarking and will likely cause skin reactions when the plating eventually wears through.

How to Identify Quality Jewellery: Your Checklist

Look for Proper Hallmarking

Legitimate UK hallmarks are your first line of defence against substandard jewellery. By law, all precious metal jewellery sold in the UK must be independently tested and hallmarked by an Assay Office. This hallmark guarantees the metal meets the stated fineness (purity) standard.

The Edinburgh Assay Office explains: "A hallmark is your assurance that the piece has been independently tested and meets legal standards for precious metal content. No hallmark means either the piece doesn't contain sufficient precious metal to qualify, or it hasn't been legally verified."

Weight Matters

Quality jewellery has substance. Before purchasing, ask about the item's weight or check product descriptions for this information. Reputable jewellers like Lily Blanche list precise weights and dimensions in their product details. Lightweight pieces may indicate lower precious metal content.

Understand Plating Specifications

When shopping for gold-plated or vermeil jewellery, inquire specifically about plating thickness and the base metal used. True vermeil features:

• A sterling silver base (92.5% pure silver)
• Gold plating of at least 2.5 microns (though premium vermeil can be 3+ microns)
• Gold purity of at least 10 carats (though 18-24 carats is preferable)

Research the Manufacturing Process

Mass-produced, machine-stamped jewellery typically contains less precious metal than handcrafted pieces. Traditional jewellery-making techniques, though more labour-intensive, often yield higher-quality pieces with greater longevity.

According to The Goldsmiths' Company: "Traditional handcrafting methods typically create pieces with more substantial precious metal content, better construction, and finer finishing details."

Understand Price Points

While everyone appreciates value, extremely low prices for supposedly precious metal jewellery should raise red flags. With gold at $3122 per ounce, genuine quality gold jewellery has minimum material costs that must be reflected in pricing.

The Long-Term Value Proposition

Investing in quality jewellery—even at higher initial price points—typically represents better value over time. Quality pieces:

• Maintain their appearance longer
• Require less maintenance
• Hold greater resale value
• Can become heirloom pieces

Jewellery historian Carol Woolton notes: "Throughout history, quality jewellery has served as both adornment and investment. In uncertain economic times, precious metal jewellery with proper certification has historically preserved wealth while providing enjoyment."

Questions to Ask Before Purchasing

1. Is this piece hallmarked? If so, by which Assay Office?
2. What is the precise precious metal content? For gold, what carat?
3. For plated pieces, what is the plating thickness in microns?
4. What is the base metal beneath any plating?
5. What is the total weight of precious metal in the piece?
6. How is the piece manufactured? Handcrafted or mass-produced?
7. Does it come with certification or authentication?

 

Lily Blanche's Commitment to Quality

At Lily Blanche, we uphold the highest standards in our jewellery creation:

• Exclusive Use of Precious Metals: We craft our pieces solely from precious metals, ensuring lasting value and beauty.
• Rigorous Assaying: All our lockets and solid gold items undergo assaying to verify their purity and authenticity.
• Superior Vermeil Standards: Our vermeil jewellery features a generous 3-micron layer of 18-carat gold over sterling silver, offering enhanced durability compared to the industry standard of 2.5 microns.
• Transparent Product Information: We provide comprehensive details, including dimensions and weights, for each piece on our product pages, empowering customers to make informed choices.

Conclusion: Making Informed Choices

As gold prices continue to rise, it's crucial for consumers to be vigilant and informed when purchasing jewellery. By understanding the implications of these market shifts and knowing what to look for—such as hallmarks, gold content, weight, craftsmanship, and seller reputation—you can ensure that your investment retains its value and beauty over time. At Lily Blanche, we are dedicated to providing jewellery of exceptional quality and transparency, helping you make purchases with confidence.

Remember that truly fine jewellery isn't merely about aesthetics—it's about craftsmanship, material integrity, and lasting value. In a market increasingly dominated by compromised quality, choosing jewellers who maintain rigorous standards ensures your purchases will continue to delight for generations to come.

For more information on our materials and craftsmanship, please visit our Materials Page.

Note: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute financial advice.

 

by Gillian Crawford

Founding Director, Lily Blanche